One Day in Bermuda: Gay-Friendly Beach Guide & Island Tips

Jump to the good bits

• The Verdict: Gorgeous But Expensive
• Virgin Voyages ShoreThings: What We Did
• Evening Sailing with Rum Swizzles
• Glass-Bottom Boat Shipwreck Tour
• Royal Naval Dockyard: British History
• Horseshoe Bay: Pink Sand Beauty
• Food Reality: Expensive But Good
• Rum Swizzle: Bermuda's Dangerous Drink
• LGBTQ+ Safety: The Complicated Truth
• Practical Information
• FAQ
• The Verdict

The Verdict: Gorgeous But Expensive

We visited Bermuda as part of Virgin Voyages Brilliant Lady's sailing inaugural sailing. We arrived into Bermuda for an overnight stay, giving us one evening and one full day ashore to explore this beautiful island.

Here's our honest verdict: Bermuda is stunning. Genuinely beautiful. Crystal-clear turquoise water, pink sand beaches, British colonial architecture painted in pastel colours, and atmosphere that feels like someone took best bits of Caribbean and made them more organised and polite. Stepping off the ship as a British person it felt very familiar, the telephone boxes, the driving on left, the yellow road lines and even the bins.

But it's expensive. Really expensive. Budget accordingly.

One day definitely wasn't enough for a first visit, we'd happily spend more time here and already talked about returning. That's one of the beauties of a cruise, you can get a taste of a destination and decide you want to come back for more.

Read our Virgin Voyages Brilliant Lady main review for full cruise experience.

Virgin Voyages ShoreThings: What We Did

Virgin Voyages calls their shore excursions "ShoreThings" and we booked all ours directly through Virgin. Although you won't be able to book these exact experiences unless you're sailing with Virgin, plenty of local operators offer similar tours worth exploring.

We did two main excursions:

Evening sailing with Rum Swizzles (first evening in port): Hour-long sunset sail with unlimited Rum Swizzles. Cost around $89 per person through Virgin.

Glass-bottom boat shipwreck tour (next day): Two-hour tour to see Bermuda's famous shipwrecks, swimming stop in secluded area, more Rum Swizzles. Cost around $119 per person through Virgin.

The convenience of booking through Virgin meant everything was organised, timing worked perfectly with the ship's schedule, and we didn't worry about missing departure. The downside? You'll pay premium compared to booking local operators directly, but for one-day port stops, the peace of mind felt worth it.

Local operators at Royal Naval Dockyard offer similar tours if you're visiting independently or want to save money.

Evening Sailing with Rum Swizzles

First evening in Bermuda, we booked Virgin's White Party sailing excursion. The "White Party" bit meant everyone was supposed to wear white. We forgot this entirely, oops.

The hour-long sunset sail departed from Royal Naval Dockyard at 18:30, taking us around the harbour and past Brilliant Lady anchored offshore. Getting close-up photos of the ship from water made for brilliant shots.

But the real star? Rum Swizzles.

These things are dangerously drinkable. Tasted like tropical fruit juice, but when we stepped back on land the swaying (and not just from sea legs) it suggested they were considerably stronger than they tasted.

WORTH IT? Yes, especially for first evening in port when you want organised activity without committing to full-day excursion.

Glass-Bottom Boat Shipwreck Tour

Next day we took glass-bottom boat tour to see shipwrecks. Bermuda's famous for shipwrecks—over 300 documented wrecks around the island, part of what makes the Bermuda Triangle legendary.

The three-hour tour departed Royal Naval Dockyard at 10:00. Glass-bottom viewing panels let us see wrecks 15-20 feet below without getting wet, which was brilliant for those of us who aren't confident swimmers or just wanted clear views.

We saw three major wrecks including one from the 1800s. The guide explained each wreck's history, how it sank, what cargo it carried. The preservation was remarkable—you could still see ship structures, anchors, even some cargo remains.

Halfway through, the boat stopped in secluded bay for 45-minute swimming break. Beautiful spot, clear turquoise water, and more Rum Swizzles appeared. Not a standard Tuesday.

We swam, lounged on deck, took photos, drank more Rum Swizzles. The whole experience felt quintessentially Bermuda—British organisation meets Caribbean relaxation.

The Details:

• Duration: 3 hours including 45-minute swim stop
• Cost: $119 per person (Virgin ShoreThings)
• Departure: 10:00 from Royal Naval Dockyard
• Included: Glass-bottom viewing, guided commentary, swimming stop, Rum Swizzles
• Wrecks seen: 3 major shipwrecks from 1800s-1900s
• Swimming: Optional 45-minute stop in secluded bay
• Getting there: Walk 5 minutes from ship to departure dock

The shipwreck viewing was fascinating for history buffs, the swimming stop added variety, and seeing why Bermuda's triangle is so famous made it feel properly educational whilst still being fun.

WORTH IT? Absolutely. One of Bermuda's unique features, well-executed tour, reasonable price for experience offered (and a cute dog in a lifejacket on board too).

Royal Naval Dockyard: British History

We didn't get time to explore more of the island properly, but we did wander Royal Naval Dockyard where our ship docked. The area deserves proper mention because it's genuinely interesting if you're into British colonial history.

The British Royal Navy established the Royal Naval Dockyard after defeat in the American War of Independence left Britain without a secure operational base between Halifax, Nova Scotia and the West Indies. Bermuda was identified as strategic mid-Atlantic location in 1809, and work began on what became known as "Gibraltar of the West."

The Dockyard operated as major British naval base for over 140 years, employing thousands of Bermudians and playing crucial roles in War of 1812 and both World Wars. The Royal Navy left Bermuda in 1951, though small presence remained until 1995.

Now it's Bermuda's most visited tourist attraction, converted into shops, restaurants, museums, and cruise terminal. The National Museum of Bermuda sits inside the Keep fortress, showing maritime artefacts, shipwreck collections, and explaining Bermuda's role in British naval history.

We visited the small museum which was genuinely interesting. Learned about convict labour used to build the Dockyard (thousands of British and Irish convicts shipped over in appalling conditions), the strategic importance during various wars, and why Bermuda remained British Overseas Territory rather than gaining independence like other Caribbean islands.

The Clocktower Mall, built as 19th-century Royal Navy administration offices, now houses boutiques and restaurants. There's a wall south of the mall decorated with ship crests from vessels that called at Dockyard—Prince Charles painted one during 1977 visit.

The Details:

• Location: Ireland Island, Sandys Parish (western tip of Bermuda)
• Access: Free to wander, museum entry £15 adult
• Museum: National Museum of Bermuda inside Keep fortress
• Time needed: 1-2 hours for museum, 30 minutes for general wandering
• Facilities: Restaurants, shops, toilets, ATMs, tourist information
• History: Built 1809-1951, employed over 1,000 Bermudians at peak

For British visitors, it felt properly nostalgic seeing how much colonial infrastructure remains. For anyone interested in maritime history or British Empire naval strategy, it's fascinating.

WORTH IT? Yes if you're docking there anyway (most cruise ships do) or interested in British naval history. Skip if you've only got few hours and beaches are priority.

Horseshoe Bay: Pink Sand Beauty

Horseshoe Bay is Bermuda's most famous beach for good reason. The sand genuinely looks pink—not Instagram-filter pink, but subtle peachy-pink from crushed coral and shells mixed with white sand. The water is that impossible turquoise you assume is oversaturated in photos but turns out to be real.

Dramatic rock formations create natural barriers and swimming areas. Sheltered coves perfect for less confident swimmers. Open ocean sections for stronger swimmers. We spent hours here just swimming, lounging, taking photos.

The Reality

Yes, it's touristy. Yes, it gets packed during cruise ship port days. But honestly? It's stunning enough to justify the crowds.

The beach has facilities (changing rooms, toilets, snack bar), lifeguards, and generally feels well-organised. Very British in that respect.

💡 TIP: Bring reef-safe sunscreen (this should be ANYWHERE you're going in or near the sea). Water shoes useful for rock pools if you're exploring.

WORTH IT? Absolutely. This alone justifies visiting Bermuda.

Cost: Free entry | Facilities: Changing rooms, toilets, snack bar | Getting there: Accessible by scooter, taxi, or bus from Royal Naval Dockyard (30 minutes)

Food Reality: Expensive But Good

Bermuda food is expensive. Really expensive. Casual lunch for two can easily hit $80-100 USD before drinks. This isn't Caribbean pricing—this is British Overseas Territory with import costs.

The quality justifies prices somewhat. Strong British influences mean excellent fish and chips, proper preparation, good ingredients. But you'll still experience sticker shock if expecting Caribbean-level costs.

Budget Reality

Budget $120-200 per person for full day including:

• Shore excursions: $60-120 (if booking tours)
• Lunch/snacks: $40-60 for two
• Drinks: $20-30
• Activities: $20-40
• Miscellaneous: $20-30

This is significantly more expensive than comparable Caribbean destinations.

💡 TIP: If you're staying connected, consider getting a SIM card before arriving. We used an eSIM through Airalo which gave us data for maps, bookings, and staying in touch without paying cruise ship WiFi rates or roaming charges. Download before departure.

Rum Swizzle: Bermuda's Dangerous Drink

Forget Dark 'n' Stormy—Rum Swizzle is Bermuda's real dangerous cocktail. We had them on both shore excursions and they're properly lethal.

The traditional recipe combines dark rum, light rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, and grenadine. Some versions add lime juice. It tastes like tropical fruit punch but packs serious alcoholic punch that sneaks up on you.

Here's the thing about Rum Swizzles: they're dangerously drinkable. Sweet, fruity, refreshing. Go down like juice. Then 20 minutes later when you stand up, the swaying suggests they were considerably stronger than they tasted.

Every boat tour serves them. Every beach bar makes them. Cost around $12-15. Worth trying multiple times because they're genuinely good and vary by bartender.

Rum Swizzle Recipe

If you want to make them at home (we have many times since!):

• 2 oz dark rum (traditionally Gosling's Black Seal)
• 1 oz light rum
• 3 oz pineapple juice
• 1 oz orange juice
• 0.5 oz grenadine
• Dash of Angostura bitters
• Crushed ice

Shake vigorously with crushed ice, strain into tall glass, garnish with orange slice and cherry. Drink responsibly because these things are deceptively strong.

WORTH IT? Yes. They're Bermuda's signature cocktail for reason.

LGBTQ+ Safety: The Complicated Truth

We need to be honest about Bermuda's complex LGBTQ+ legal situation because it matters for travellers.

The Legal Reality

What's legal:

• Homosexuality (legal since 1994)
• Anti-discrimination protections based on sexual orientation (Human Rights Act since 2013)
• Domestic partnerships for same-sex couples

What's NOT legal:

• Same-sex marriage (banned by Privy Council ruling in 2022 after brief period of legality which is incredibly sad and disappointing)

Bermuda has complicated history with marriage equality. Briefly legalised same-sex marriage in 2017, then repealed it in 2018, then Privy Council (UK's highest court of appeal for Bermuda) banned it definitively in 2022. Domestic partnerships exist as alternative but don't carry same rights as marriage.

Our Experience

We felt comfortable during our visit though we kept the PDA minimal. The island felt safe and welcoming from tourism perspective. Bermuda's economy relies heavily on tourism, and visitors are generally treated well regardless of orientation.

LGBTQ+ Venues & Community

We didn't visit any LGBTQ+ specific venues during our one-day cruise stop, but for travellers spending more time:

Safe spaces:

• Casey's Lounge in Hamilton (known as welcoming to LGBTQ+ community)
• Rock Island Coffee (LGBTQ-owned)
• Little Venice Restaurant (positive reputation with queer travellers)

Bermuda Pride: Happens annually in August (and is something we would love to return for), attracting 6,000+ people (nearly 10% of island's 64,000 population). This suggests visible LGBTQ+ community despite conservative laws.

The Reality for Visitors

As cruise passengers or short-term visitors, you'll likely feel welcomed. Bermuda understands tourism is economic lifeline. The conservative legal stance on marriage contrasts with generally tolerant attitude toward visitors.

That said, we're not going to pretend this is Amsterdam or San Francisco it has conservative elements, the marriage ban reflects that. If you're planning extended stay or considering Bermuda as destination wedding location, the legal restrictions matter significantly.

Practical Information

Money & Costs

Currency: Bermudian Dollar (BMD) pegged 1:1 with USD
Cards: Widely accepted
Budget: $120-200 per person for one day including shore excursions

Getting Around

From cruise terminal: Royal Naval Dockyard is main terminal, most attractions walkable or short taxi ride
Taxis: Available but expensive ($40-60 per journey to Horseshoe Bay)
Buses: Public buses run regularly, much cheaper but less flexible
Scooter rental: Available at dockyard, $50-70 per day
Remember: Drive on LEFT side of road

When to Visit

Best: May-October for warm weather and swimming
Peak cruise season: April-November
Hurricane season: June-November (peak August-October)
We visited: September, weather was excellent

What to Pack

• Reef-safe sunscreen (Bermuda protective of environment)
• Swimwear
• Light jacket (cooler on boat than expected)
• Comfortable shoes for exploring
• Cash (some smaller places don't take cards)
• eSIM or international data plan for staying connected

Island Facts

• Size: 21 square miles (54 square km)
• Population: 64,000
• British Overseas Territory since 1609
• Drive on left
• Voltage: 120V (same as US)
• Language: English with British influences

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Bermuda safe for LGBTQ+ travellers?

Yes, generally safe despite complex legal situation. Homosexuality is legal since 1994. Human Rights Act protects against discrimination based on sexual orientation since 2013. Same-sex marriage is NOT legal (banned by Privy Council 2022), but domestic partnerships exist. Recent articles from queer travellers confirm Bermuda feels welcoming despite conservative laws. Tourism is major industry and visitors are treated well regardless of orientation. We felt comfortable during our visit though we kept PDA minimal.

How expensive is Bermuda?

Very expensive. Budget $120-200 per person for one day including shore excursions ($60-120), lunch ($40-50 for two), activities. Virgin Voyages ShoreThings (shore excursions) ranged from $79-159 per person. More expensive than Caribbean destinations. Quality is generally excellent with strong British influences, but prices reflect British Overseas Territory status.

What's the best beach in Bermuda?

Horseshoe Bay is most famous for good reason—genuinely beautiful pink sand, turquoise water, dramatic rock formations. Yes it's touristy and packed, but stunning enough to justify crowds. We loved it despite tourist presence. Quieter alternatives exist around island for those wanting less crowded beaches.

How much time do you need in Bermuda?

One day sufficient for highlights (Horseshoe Bay, sailing, shipwreck tour). Two-three days ideal for deeper exploration, multiple beaches, relaxed pace. We spent one full day and one evening from Virgin Voyages cruise and loved it but left wanting more. Island is small (21 square miles) but has enough variety for multi-day visit.

What should I try in Bermuda?

Rum Swizzle cocktail (dark rum, light rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, grenadine—dangerously drinkable, tastes like fruit juice but packs serious punch), fish sandwich from roadside stand (local institution, delicious, around $15), proper British fish and chips, rum cake. Food quality is generally excellent with British colonial influences.

Are there gay bars in Bermuda?

No official gay bars exist. Casey's Lounge in Hamilton known as safe space for LGBTQ+ community. Rock Island Coffee (LGBTQ-owned) welcoming. Little Venice Restaurant has positive reputation with queer travellers. Bermuda Pride happens annually in August attracting 6,000+ people (nearly 10% of island's population). We didn't visit any LGBTQ+ specific venues during our day trip.

What are the best shore excursions in Bermuda?

Glass-bottom boat shipwreck tours are brilliant—Bermuda's famous for wrecks that make the Bermuda Triangle legendary. Sailing excursions with Rum Swizzles let you see the island from water. White Party beach events if your cruise offers them. Royal Naval Dockyard worth exploring for British colonial history. Book through your cruise line's shore excursions or local operators.

The Verdict

Bermuda exceeded expectations despite the price tag. The shipwreck tour and evening sailing were highlights we didn't expect. Horseshoe Bay lived up to the hype. The Rum Swizzles were dangerously good. The Royal Naval Dockyard gave unexpected dose of British colonial history.

Would we return? Absolutely. Two-three days next time to properly explore without rushing. The island is small but has enough variety for longer stay.

For cruise passengers with one day: book glass-bottom boat tour, hit Horseshoe Bay, explore Naval Dockyard, try Rum Swizzles. That's the winning formula.

Travel with us, always with love and a little luxe 🌈✈️